How to widen a sleeve at the biceps

In this video tutorial, I show you how to widen a sleeve at the biceps without widening the armhole. The video is made using the Marieke mum sewing pattern.

Here’s how to widen a sleeve at the bicep WITHOUT altering the armhole of your pattern.

1. Measure the circumference of your arm at the widest point = bicep
2. Add 1 cm for ease
3. Measure Y, the width of the pattern piece at the bicep level (a few centimeters below the armhole)
4. Calculate your adjustment = arm circumference + 1 cm ease - Y + seam allowances (as they are included in Ikatee patterns) For example:
   • Y = 32 cm including seam allowances
   • Arm circumference = 33 cm
   • Arm circumference + ease = 34 cm
   • Seam allowances on each side: 2 * 1 cm = 2 cm
   • Adjustment to be made = 34 - 32 + 2 = 4 cm
5. Place the sleeve piece on a sheet of paper and draw a line parallel to the sleeve sides at X cm (X = adjustment / 2 as the adjustment is distributed on each side. In the example X = 4 / 2 = 2 cm)
6. Pin the top of the sleeve cap and pivot the sleeve piece around the pin until the bottom of the armhole touches the red-drawn widening line. Redraw the front armhole curve on your paper along the pattern piece (in green on the drawing). Then repeat the operation for the back of the sleeve.
7. Redraw the pattern piece (in green): the armhole is shifted but retains the same shape on the front and back; the sleeve is widened at the bicep. It is possible to narrow the bottom of the sleeve afterwards (which will have very little effect on the bicep widening).

And in the video.

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