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How to sew faux fur - Sewing technical tutorial

 

 

Faux fur is making its way into many wardrobes. Very trendy, rather ethical, and very warm, it is the favorite material of winter wardrobes. Faux fur or sherpa jackets, vests with or without sleeves, ponchos, chapkas, sleep sacks, and even blankets are ultra-comfortable and allow you to face the wind and dropping temperatures.


Sewing faux fur or sherpa requires some tips that Ikatee details here:

  1. Cutting the Pieces in Fur Fabrics

  • Cut in the direction of the nap (lay the fur downwards) and cut all the pieces in the same direction.

  • Cut faux fur in a single layer; this sometimes means mirroring (symmetrically) the pattern pieces that are marked "cut on the fold." In any case, do not cut on fabric folded in double layers.

 

  • Place the pattern pieces flat on the fabric; the base of the fabric (weave or knit) is visible, so the fur is lying flat on the cutting table.
  • Pin with colored head pins to easily spot them and avoid forgetting them in the fur.
  • Trace the outlines of the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk or a fabric marker on the wrong side of the fur (the base of the fabric, weave, or knit is visible).
  • Cut with fine-point scissors, spreading the fur apart, especially if the fur is long.

However, based on experience, I prefer to trim the fur along the edges at the seam allowances (cutting the fur close to the base within 0.7 to 1 cm of the edge) or serge the edges directly to make the edges easier to work with, align, and it does not interfere with the stitching or the proper placement of the fur after sewing.

  • A good cleaning is necessary after cutting and preparing the pieces. Using a vacuum cleaner is recommended, even along the edges, adjusting the suction intensity (low intensity).

2. Ironing and Interfacing Fur Fabrics

  • It is recommended not to iron faux furs, as they are mostly made of synthetic fibers. The material would be damaged upon contact with the iron.
  • If you need to reinforce a part such as a facing or a button placket, it is also recommended to hand-sew a fine interfacing fabric with a few securing stitches. Even though this interfacing can usually be fusible, it cannot be fused onto faux fur without risking damage to the synthetic fur.

3. Sewing Fur Fabrics

  • Use universal needles of size 90 or 100 or needles adapted to the type of material (leather for natural furs, jersey for knit furs like sherpa).

  • Place the base of the material (wrong side of the faux fur) against the feed dogs of the sewing machine; the fur should be visible under the presser foot. If the fur was at the level of the feed dogs, it would get caught and block the sewing progress.
  • Use a sewing machine with a good motor, as faux furs are more or less thick. A motor that allows good feeding is therefore preferable. An optional walking foot can be useful. If your material sticks a bit at the feed dogs, it often helps to place a thin sheet of paper, such as tissue paper, between the feed dogs and the material to facilitate sewing. This paper can be easily torn away after sewing.
  • Use a slightly lengthened straight stitch (minimum length 3 to 4) and sew slowly due to the thickness of the material being assembled.
  • Use polyester thread.

Note: If you have serged along the edges (or trimmed the fur along the edges at the seam allowances), you will be able to visualize the edges more easily and ensure proper assembly.

  • For assembling two pieces right sides together, push the fur inward between the layers to prevent it from getting caught in the seam.
  • After sewing, lift the fur caught in the seam with the tip of a needle along the seam line to avoid a visible seam line on the right side.

4. Buttonholes, Buttons, and Fasteners in Fur-like Fabrics

Several options: buttons/buttonholes, snap fasteners to attach or sew, or special fur hooks.

  • Buttonholes: Before embroidering the buttonhole, it is recommended to trim the area slightly on a small surface (trim the fur down to the weave/knit with the tip of embroidery scissors). Test a buttonhole on a separate piece of fabric (fur with the right side visible). If you encounter some difficulties, place a piece of tissue paper or a very thin fabric like batiste or organza between the fabric and the presser foot, embroider your buttonhole, and then trim the thin fabric close to the buttonhole or simply tear off the tissue paper.
  • Snap fasteners: Prefer anorak snap fasteners to attach (be sure to insert a reinforcement square of fabric on the wrong side, which will be trimmed close after attaching the snap fastener) or opt for snap fasteners to sew by hand.

Good sewing

Regarding Sherpa/Fur-Lined Suede.

 

1) Transferring the Pattern

  • You need to transfer the pattern onto the suede side (the pieces are symmetrical, so it's all good). This material does not require hemming or overcasting... You can leave the edges raw. Remove the loose fibers of the fleece by hand after cutting, but it won't shed anymore after that.
  • Buttonhole Tip: Since suede does not fray, cut a slit in the fabric and reinforce the two ends with a small backstitch.
  • Finally, save even more time... the seam allowances do not need to be trimmed (7mm seam allowances will not significantly impact the model).

2) Sewing

  • Sew the pieces right sides together with the fur touching the machine's feed dogs... if your machine has good feed (a good motor that feeds well), it will go smoothly. If it sticks a bit, then place thin paper such as tissue paper (often collected from shops during purchases) between the machine's feed dogs and the "furry" side.
  • The tissue paper will also be sewn but can be easily torn away afterward and reused several times. This trick can be used whenever a fabric sticks a bit. And that's it, you're done! As I mentioned... it's super simple and super quick!