How to sew buttonholes - Sewing technical tutorial
Buttonholes are made as a finishing touch for garments.
Most machines offer buttonhole embroidery programs and suitable presser feet that come with the machine; refer to each machine's manual for specifics.
A buttonhole is made according to the following standard steps:
- Preparation: Fine materials or knits should be reinforced on the back with a thin fusible interfacing (for example, on the back of the button placket).
- Mark the buttonhole locations: Mark the middle and the ends of the buttonholes. The length of the buttonhole is determined by the size of the button + 1 mm on each side to ensure the button passes through easily.
- Set the special buttonhole presser foot: (Here, a model from my ©Bernina) to the desired buttonhole length (button diameter + 2 mm max).
- Start the buttonhole program on your machine: Refer to the manual of each machine for specifics. The buttonhole is usually done in 4 steps (backstitch, one side of zigzag stitches, the opposite side of zigzag stitches, and the backstitch opposite the first one). Raise the presser foot and cut the excess threads at the beginning and end of the stitching. See illustrations below for front and back views.
- Open the buttonholes with a seam ripper or fine-tipped scissors: To do this, insert the tip between the 2 rows of stitches, after the backstitches, then cut up to the opposite backstitches. Be careful not to cut the backstitches.
- Mark the button positions opposite the buttonholes.
- Sew the buttons.
Details:
Buttonholes are made vertically on shirts and blouses, except for the topmost one, which is made horizontally. They are made horizontally on belts and cuffs.
Finally, buttonholes are made on the right placket (when the garment is worn) for girls and on the left placket for boys.