1. Home
  2. How to match stripes

How to match stripes

How to successfully line up stripes and patterns in sewing?

Patterned fabrics, especially striped ones, can be challenging to work with if you don't have the right techniques. In this video, discover our methods and tips for creating garments with stripes or patterns without any misalignment. We'll explain all our tricks for successful pattern matching, particularly with stripes. While pattern matching can be a bit challenging when making a garment, with the right techniques, it will become a breeze! Perfect pattern matching gives a very high-quality finish to your creations, so it's worth spending a bit of time on it.

Complete Guide to Mastering Pattern and Stripe Matching in Sewing for Beginners

In the vast world of sewing, pattern and stripe matching can seem intimidating for beginners. But don't worry! With a bit of practice and patience, you can master this art perfectly. In this article, we'll explore in detail how to achieve perfect pattern matching, focusing specifically on stripes, and how to apply them to garment sewing. Whether you're a novice or just looking to perfect your skills, follow these tips for impeccable pattern matching.

What is Pattern Matching in Sewing, and Why Align Stripes?

Pattern matching, though not essential, adds a professional touch to your creations. It is often seen in high-end garments and haute couture, providing a neat and aesthetic finish. It involves cutting your pattern pieces in such a way that the fabric patterns are continuous across seams. This is particularly noticeable on the sides, front, and sleeves.

What Are the Different Types of Stripes?

Stripes can be woven, knitted, or printed on the fabric, each requiring a slightly different approach.

For woven and knitted stripes, the grainline will be parallel or perpendicular (depending on the direction of your stripes), and you won't face significant issues. For printed stripes, sometimes the stripes might be slightly off-grain. In this case, it is better to align your pattern with the stripes. The final result will be much more successful.

How to Choose the Right Fabric for Successful Pattern Matching?

Selecting the right fabric can make pattern matching easier. Opt for high-quality fabric with good structure, as this will simplify aligning the stripes. Keep in mind that pattern matching might require slightly more fabric, so ensure you have enough for your project. The wider the stripes, the easier it will be to match the patterns. Remember this, especially if it's your first project with patterns! If matching the pattern is too complex, you can consider cutting the fabric in the other direction or on the bias. Have fun with the direction of the stripes.

Where to Match Patterns? Selecting the Appropriate Areas for Pattern Matching

Not all pattern matches are necessary, but it's crucial to choose the most visible areas for a harmonious result. The preferred areas are generally the fronts or backs with an opening (buttons or zippers), side seams, horizontal sleeve stripes aligned with the front bodice, as well as underarm seams and potentially the shoulders.

When it comes to sleeves, the underarm seam of the front and back should match the underarm notch of the sleeve. However, be aware that in a sleeve, the stripes won't align perfectly around the entire armhole.

Techniques for Pattern Matching in Sewing

Step 1: Preparing and Cutting the Fabric for Perfect Pattern Matching

Before starting, wash and iron your fabric carefully. This will make it easier to achieve a smooth and precise result. Lay your fabric out on a large, flat surface.

Often, jerseys have a glued selvage, which can distort the stripes at the edges of the fabric. We recommend cutting these strips off to make positioning the fabric easier. Fold your fabric in half, right sides together, matching the width of your pattern piece. Align the stripes, ensuring they all coincide, then pin them, one pin per stripe. This may take some time, but it’s a crucial step that will make pinning the pattern much easier.

Some fabrics may have twisted slightly during washing or tend to roll, making it difficult to align the stripes. In this case, do not fold your fabric in half: your pieces will not be positioned on the fold, giving you more visibility on the placement of the stripes.

To facilitate the placement of the pattern, we recommend tracing it onto slightly transparent paper, so you can see the stripes through it. Place your pattern carefully, paying attention to matching the stripes. Make sure to place your pieces precisely, aligning the patterns carefully for perfect matches. Use marks on the pattern to facilitate aligning the pieces. You can trace these marks yourself, transferring them from the front to the back. The marks should be at equal distances on all pieces to ensure the stripes match and align. Pin everything, always checking that the pieces remain well-aligned. This is the most important step to ensure the final result. Don’t hesitate to spend some time on this step.

Cut your pattern pieces with a rotary cutter or scissors.

Special Case: Sewing Stripes on the Bias

When working with patterns cut on the bias or in different directions, align the pattern at the seam line rather than the selvages for perfect matching.

Step 2: Sewing the Matches

We recommend not serging the pieces before sewing to avoid distorting the fabric. If possible, assemble first, then serge.

Carefully pin your pieces together, ensuring the patterns remain aligned. To secure the seam if you fear the layers might shift, hand-baste them first.

We prefer assembling the stripes with a sewing machine. This allows you to keep the pins in place. If you sew slowly, you can leave them in while sewing under the presser foot.

Sewing Stripes with a Serger

If you're using a serger, make preliminary tests on fabric scraps to adjust pinning, accounting for any slight misalignment due to different feed rates of the top and bottom fabrics. If necessary, sew first on a sewing machine to stabilize the matches before using the serger.

Our Tips for Sewing Stripes

By following these tips and techniques, you can master pattern matching, even as a novice seamstress. With practice, your pattern matches will become cleaner, adding a professional touch to your creations. Don't be afraid to tackle new sewing challenges and explore the endless possibilities of pattern matching in your projects.

More technical tutorials