How to choose your size and adjust a sewing pattern to your body shape and height

When you start sewing clothes, choosing the right size and adjusting the pattern to your body shape are essential steps to achieve a perfect result and a truly tailored garment. Ikatee women’s patterns come in two size ranges: from 34 to 46 (2 to 14, US sizes) and from 32 to 52 (0 to 20, US sizes), which correspond to ready-to-wear sizes. However, we strongly recommend taking your own measurements and comparing them to our size chart, as there may be differences from standard store sizing.

1. How to choose the right pattern size?

Taking your measurements correctly

Before choosing your pattern size, it's essential to take your measurements with a measuring tape:

• Height: stand up straight and measure from head to toe, as you would with a height chart.
• Bust: measure around the fullest part of the bust, usually across the mid-back and over the shoulder blades.
• Waist: measure at the narrowest part of the waist.
• Hips: measure around the widest part of the hips.

Take your measurements properly (don’t suck in your stomach, and avoid measuring first thing in the morning on an empty stomach), and breathe normally while doing so.

Then compare these measurements to the size chart included in the pattern and choose your size accordingly. Select the size that is closest to your measurements.

Special case: between two sizes

It often happens that your measurements fall between several sizes. In this case, here are a few guidelines to follow:

• For trousers or bottom garments, the hip measurement is the most important.
• For a blouse or top garment, the bust measurement is the most important.
• For dresses, both the bust and hip measurements are key. The final choice depends on the design of the pattern.

                       - For a dress that is fitted at the bust and loose at the hips, choose your size based on your bust measurement.

                       - For a dress that is fitted at the hips and looser on top, go with your hip measurement.

• For a loose-fitting pattern :

                       - If you prefer a more fitted look, choose the smaller size.

                       - For a more oversized effect, go for the larger size.

If in doubt, it's best to make a muslin using an inexpensive fabric with a similar drape to test the size choice and the final fit.

Compare with a ready-to-wear garment

We include a finished garment measurement chart in our patterns. These measurements take into account the ease needed for comfort and style. This allows you to compare them with a garment from your wardrobe to ensure the final result matches your expectations. For example, if you’re aiming for a loose fit, it may be necessary to choose a size larger than your usual one. By comparing a garment you own with the finished measurements, you can better anticipate the fit and visualize the outcome.

2. Adjusting the pattern to your height

The patterns are designed for a height of 165 cm, 5’5’’. If you are shorter or taller, it’s necessary to adjust the length of the pattern to ensure it fits properly. The values to add or subtract are provided in most of our patterns. If not, here are standard adjustments that can be applied to the majority of patterns.

Shortening a pattern

1. Place the pattern pieces on a flat surface and align them with each other. To do this, follow the layout shown in the tutorial, positioning the pattern pieces along a straight line and making sure the grainlines are perpendicular to it.
2. Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at the point indicated on the pattern. It's important to mark it at the same spot on all relevant pieces. Ideally, choose a straight area of the pattern and avoid curves when possible.
3. Draw a second line parallel to the first one, below it, at a distance equal to the amount you want to remove (refer to the chart provided in the pattern).
4. Carefully fold the paper to bring the two lines together, making sure the grainline remains properly aligned.
5. Tape or glue the fold to keep the adjustment in place.
6. Redraw the pattern edges to smooth out the cutting lines. Soften any curves if needed.

Lengthening a pattern

1. Place the pattern pieces on a flat surface and align them with each other. To do this, follow the layout provided in the tutorial, positioning the pieces along a straight line and ensuring the grainlines are perpendicular to it.
2. Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at the location indicated on the pattern. It’s important to draw this line at the same spot on all relevant pieces. Ideally, choose straight sections and avoid curved areas whenever possible.
3. Cut along this line to divide the piece into two parts.
4. Prepare a strip of paper with a width equal to the desired adjustment (refer to the chart in the pattern).
5. Glue the strip of paper between the two sections of the pattern, making sure the grainline stays properly aligned.
6. Redraw the edges of the pattern, smoothing out the lines and adjusting curves if necessary.

And there you go, you've adjusted the pattern to your height!

3. Adjusting the pattern to your body shape

If your measurements fall across several sizes, it is possible to adjust the pattern to match your body shape more precisely. This does require some care and accuracy, and ideally a bit of sewing experience. It’s also important not to overdo it, in order to preserve the original design of the garment. For example, it’s uncommon to grade between more than two sizes.

Practical case: adjusting pants between two sizes

If you are a size 42 (US size 10) at the waist and a size 40 (US size 8) at the hips, here’s how to grade between two sizes:

1. Copy the pattern in size 40 (US size 8) from the bottom up to the hips.
2. From the hips upward, gradually transition to the lines of size 42 (US size 10) up to the waist.
3. Use the waistband pieces in size 42 (US size 10).
4. Make a muslin to test the fit before cutting into your final fabric.

Practical case: adjusting a blouse between two sizes

If you are a size 34 (US size 2) at the waist and a size 36 (US size 4) at the bust, here’s how to grade between two sizes:

1. Copy the pattern in size 36 (US size 4) from the top down to the bust.
2. From the bust to the waist, gradually transition to the lines of size 34 (US size 2).
3. Use the sleeve and collar pieces in size 36 (US size 4).
4. Make a muslin to test the fit before cutting your final fabric.

Testing and adjusting a sewing pattern with a muslin

Once all these modifications have been made to the paper pattern, making a muslin may be necessary to check the fit of the garment. Use an inexpensive fabric with a drape similar to your final fabric.

1. Check that the adjustments you made result in a good fit.
2. If not, make any necessary changes directly on the muslin by marking the modifications.
3. Transfer these changes to your paper pattern.
4. If the modifications are significant, it may be necessary to make a second muslin before cutting into your final fabric.

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Choosing the right size and adjusting a pattern to your body shape are essential steps for creating a comfortable, custom-fit garment. By taking the time to measure yourself, adjust the pattern to your height, and make a test muslin, you greatly increase your chances of success in your sewing project.

With more sewing experience, you'll also get to know your body and its specifics better, and you'll be able to make certain adjustments instinctively.