How to make gathers ?
In this video tutorial, I show you how to make gathers, with a sewing machine and with a serger.
Gathering is used, among other things, to add fullness and ease to a garment, as well as to attach ruffles. It can be done by hand or by machine.
For the English version, remember to activate the English subtitles.
- Making Gathers with a Sewing Machine
Making gathers is very easy; it’s simply a matter of technique. With a sewing machine, you have three different techniques at your disposal.
Gathering Threads
This involves sewing two parallel lines with a long stitch length and very low tension. Be careful not to make any backstitches because you will need to pull on the threads to gather the fabric. Also, leave plenty of thread at the beginning and end of the stitching to facilitate the work later on. The first gathering line is usually sewn 0.5 cm from the edge and the second one at 1.5 cm. Once the two gathering lines are sewn, you need to distribute them evenly—a real challenge. The trick is to divide your fabric into several equal sections (see video) with pins. This will break up the fabric strip to be gathered and allow for better distribution of the gathers. You can now pull on the gathering threads and distribute them evenly within the sections previously marked by the pins. You can then make figure-eights with the gathering threads around the pins to secure them. It is now time to proceed with the assembly stitching (restoring a standard stitch length and tension) 1 cm from the edge, between the two gathering lines. And there you go, it’s done.
The Gathering Foot
The gathering foot, as its name suggests, is a special sewing machine foot that allows you to create gathers. You can purchase it at haberdasheries or specialized stores. Once the foot is installed, you need to set your sewing machine to the maximum stitch length and very low tension. Position the fabric under the gathering foot (not in the slot) and sew. The intensity of the gathers will depend on the stitch length you have set. The advantage is that the gathers form automatically; the disadvantage is that you cannot control the final length of your fabric, which can be problematic since the gathered piece often needs to match another non-gathered piece of a precise length.
However, this can be useful for accessories or large strips that would form a ruffle at the bottom of a skirt, for example.
The slot of the gathering foot is used to slide the second fabric that should not be gathered but joined to the gathered piece. Thus, in one pass, you gather your fabric and attach it to another piece of fabric.
Gathers with Elastic
This method is particularly useful for sleeve hems, for example. The little trick is not to cut the elastic but just to mark a reference line at the required length. This will give you better grip. Next, position the fabric wrong side up with the elastic on top. We recommend starting with a few zigzag stitches to secure the two materials together. The advantage of the zigzag stitch is that it is elastic. A straight stitch might break under the first tension. Then, you need to hold both materials after the presser foot with one hand and guide the upcoming fabric with the other while keeping the elastic under tension. The marked reference point should reach the end of your fabric piece. Move forward slowly, make a backstitch, and cut your elastic. The key is to maintain the same tension in the elastic throughout your stitching to achieve very regular gathers. And that's it!
2) Making Gathers with a Serger
Simple Overlock
With a serger, you can create gathers with a simple overlock stitch. First, set the differential feed to 2, and set the stitch length and width to maximum. You can also lock the knife if you wish. Sew. You will get a gathered piece, but just like with the gathering foot on a sewing machine, you won't be able to control its length. You can then pull on the needle threads to gather a bit more and achieve the desired size. The advantage is that your gathers are immediately well distributed, and you only need to attach the gathered piece to the non-gathered one.
Gathering Foot for Serger
The operation is the same as with a gathering foot for a sewing machine. After installing the gathering foot for the serger, position the fabric under the foot and start sewing. The serger settings should be the same as in the previous step. We recommend proceeding slowly as the fabric tends to move a lot.
As with the gathering foot for a sewing machine, it is possible to gather and sew at the same time: slide the fabric to be gathered under the foot and the fabric that should not be gathered into the slot of the foot, then sew. Again, it can be quite tricky to handle all the fabrics at once, but by taking your time, you should be able to manage.
3) Which Method to Choose?
At Ikatee, we find that a gathering foot is not really essential, although it can save a lot of time when you don't need a very precise length of gathers. Once again, it depends on your use and your sewing projects.
Choose the method best suited to your project!