How to use interfacing?

In this new tutorial, let’s talk about a key step of your sewing project: interfacing.

What is interfacing?

Interfacing is a textile layer that is applied to the wrong side of the fabric. To interface means therefore to reinforce a piece that will need it, often because it will be very solicited or because it will be subjected to a particular tension. You may also want to give more hold to a part of the garment (a collar for example).

Discover all our tips and advice in video!

For the English version, remember to activate the English subtitles.


The different types of interfacing

There are two main types of interfacing: fusible interfacing, which is set with the heat of an iron, and non-fusible interfacing.

In the fusible interfacing type, we differentiate :

  • The woven: which behave like a woven fabric, with warp and weft threads. They will follow the movement of the piece, structure it, allowing it to follow natural folds.
  • The knits: perfect for knitted fabrics, such as jersey, because they preserve all the elasticity of the material.
  • The non wovens: made of glued fibers, they are not suitable for garments, but will suit for accessory projects because of their "cardboard" aspect.
  • The fleece: very useful to give thickness, softness and hold to a project, and really ideal for all quilting operations.
  • The double-sided: used for transfers and crests.

    There are also non-fusible interfacing, which are sewn on, often used for fabrics that could be damaged by the heat of the iron.


    Some advice

    Here are some tips you need to know: 

  • J First of all, I recommend that you choose an interfacing that is thinner than the main fabric, in order to preserve its flexibility.
  • Be sure to place your pieces in the grainline of the interfacing, as you would do with your main fabric.
  • Unless otherwise stated in the sewing pattern, feel free to cut your interfacing with a margin all around. This way, even if the interfacing moves slightly when fused, your piece of fabric will still be well covered.
  • Finally, make sure that you have ironed the piece before fusing interfacing so that it is perfectly ready.

    How to fuse interfacing?

    Always remember to protect your ironing board and your iron, by working between two layers of baking paper for example.

    Lay out your piece of fabric, wrong side facing you, then place your interfacing, glue against the fabric. Finally, apply your iron for a few seconds (be careful, steam must be disabled !), then move it without making it slide (which would risk moving the interfacing), but by lifting it and positioning it next, until the entire surface has been covered. Then let the piece cool completely before handling.

    Happy sewing! See you soon at ikatee.