How to sew fur-backed fabrics - Sewing technical tutorial
You want to make a sleeveless vest or an ultra-cozy coat with a fabric already lined with faux fur; however, you don’t know how to sew the edges of these fabrics... Don’t panic! In this video tutorial, find all our tips, techniques, and examples to master the edge finishing techniques, accessible to beginners.
For the English version, remember to activate the English subtitles.
What is Sherpa or Faux Fur Backed Fabric?
Fabrics with fur backing are generally bonded materials. Bonding allows different layers of materials to be assembled: textile on textile or textile on foam, for example. It is a method that allows the advantages of each layer to be utilized and offers a 2-in-1 fabric. There is the top fabric and the backing material which acts as a lining. Fur-backed materials will therefore have a warm lining; they are perfect for sewing jackets, thick overshirts, or winter vests, and you don't need to line them.
The Different Fabrics:
You will find various qualities of fabrics already bonded with faux fur available in the market:
- Suede fabrics lined with Sherpa fleece or faux fur (like faux sheepskin).
- Corduroy fabrics lined with Sherpa fleece or faux fur.
- Denim fabrics lined with Sherpa fleece.
The top and bottom materials may or may not fray at the edges. It is important to identify the qualities of each layer to adapt the edge sewing technique.
Materials that do not fray at the edges after cutting:
- Suede
- Sherpa fleece (sheep-like loops)
Materials that fray at the edges after cutting:
- Corduroy
- Denim
- Faux fur (cut pile, not loops)
Finishing Edges That Don’t Fray? It’s Quick and Easy!
This is the simplest and quickest case: combining suede and Sherpa fleece. There is very little to do. Cut the 2-in-1 suede and Sherpa fabric and simply remove the cut Sherpa fibers at the edge with your fingers (essentially cleaning up the cut fur at the edge). Then, there’s nothing more to do; the edge will remain intact and doesn’t even need to be folded. Leave the edges raw. You can also make buttonholes simply by making a slit with a seam ripper or small embroidery scissors.
Sherpa-backed suede is a wonderful material because it allows for quick sewing and is easy to care for with machine washing at 30°C.
Finishing Materials That Fray?
If even one of the two materials (top or bottom) frays, you will need to finish the cut edges properly.
Step 1 - Trim the Faux Fur or Sherpa 1 cm Along the Edges:
- Simply use scissors
- For edges that will be hemmed: trim 2x the height of the hem (for example, for a final 2 cm hem, trim the fibers on the reverse side 4 cm high)
- Trimming the fibers on the reverse side helps avoid bulkiness.
Step 2 - Finish the Edges:
- Option A: Serge the edge, then fold it under for a hem, or serge the edge, then sew between two pieces to be assembled, and finally, press the seams open.
- Option B: Bind the edges with a bias tape.
- Option C: Attach a facing made of a finer fabric to the edges.