Sewing jersey and knits without a serger
Sewing Jersey Without a Serger
Ikatee offers numerous sewing patterns to make with jersey knit fabric. In this course on handling jersey, we will share all the tips and good habits we've developed for sewing it without using a serger.
In this video tutorial, we detail all the steps to sew garments and accessories with knit fabric without a serger. Discover our tips and other advice to easily use your favorite jerseys and sweat fabrics!
1. Knits and Their Uses
Knits
The jersey is a knitted stitch with more or less thick threads. It forms loops of stitches contrary to a woven fabric which is the result of an interlacing of stretched threads.
Jersey Knit
Jersey is a fabric knitting technique characterized by knit stitches forming "V" shapes on the right side and purl stitches forming "bridges" on the wrong side, knitted with yarns of varying thicknesses. It is knitted using the jersey stitch.
Jersey can be knitted with yarns made from natural fibers (cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, etc.), artificial fibers (viscose, Tencel, etc.), synthetic fibers (polyester, elastane, etc.), or blends of these fibers (cotton polyester, cotton viscose, cotton elastane, etc.).
Jersey is naturally stretchy; this quality varies depending on the type of fiber used and the tension of the stitches. A jersey with loose stitches and elastane is particularly stretchy. It is ideal for sewing T-shirts, dresses, leggings, pajamas, underwear, and bodysuits. We recommend it for baby and children's clothing.
1 - Ponti Roma or Milano Jersey: This specific knitting technique produces a thick and structured knit fabric. It is perfect for making dresses, skirts, or jackets with good structure and a beautiful drape.
2 - Sherpa: Sherpa can be made on a knit base, making it stretchable. It is a synthetic material that mimics sheep’s wool, making it heavy, warm, and insulating.
3 - Fleece Jersey: This is a thicker jersey. The wrong side has looser loops. It is less stretchy due to its knitting and thickness. It is easy to sew and used for sweatshirts, joggers, sportswear dresses, or cardigans. It comes in a lightweight version (fine yarns, non-brushed back: "French terry"), an all-season version (medium yarns, brushed back), and a warm version (brushed on both sides). It can be made on cotton-elastane or cotton-polyester-elastane bases; elastane adds comfort, while polyester adds durability and fluffiness.
4 - Viscose Jersey: This type is more fluid and tends to move more during sewing, making it more delicate to work with. It is mainly used in women's fashion for its nice drape.
5 - Honeycomb Knit: This fabric has a honeycomb structure, creating a textured, airy, and comfortable effect. The waffle effect is achieved by layering two woven fabric layers together. It is a very absorbent fabric.
6 - Fleece Jersey (repeated): This is the same as point 3, including the types and uses.
7 - Knitted Fabric: This is a very stretchy material that can replace knitting.
8 - Terry Jersey: This fabric has a base of knit stitches with small loops on the surface, making it highly stretchable. It is soft, fluffy, and bulky, perfect for clothing and accessories.
9 - Velour Knit or Nicky Knit: This is a short-pile knit fabric. It is a velour on a jersey base with a soft face, mainly used for pajamas, blouses, or sweatshirts.
10 - Ribbing (Rectilinear or Tubular): This is a complementary knit to jersey, used for cuffs, collars, and hems of sweatshirts or T-shirts. This thick knit is ribbed, with varying rib widths. A 11 rib is lightly ribbed (one knit stitch, one purl stitch), while a 22 rib has wider ribs (two knit stitches, two purl stitches). Ribbing is very stretchy and usually contains elastane for extra stretch and durability. It comes in rectilinear form (flat-knit fabric in various widths) or tubular form (knit in a continuous tube). Tubular ribbing can be cut open and laid flat. Patterns are placed across the fabric width and cut. Generally, cuffs, collars, and hem bands are folded in half for reinforcement and perfect hold.
11 - Lace Jersey or Pointelle Knit: This knit is characterized by small openwork creating a pattern. It is delicate and often used in lingerie.
12 - Cotton Jersey: This is the most common type, used for T-shirts, pajamas, and loose dresses. Comfortable and easy to care for, it is ideal for children's clothing and easy to sew.
13 - Linen or Bamboo Jersey: Similar to cotton jersey in functionality, it is very absorbent, making it ideal for summer and baby clothes.
14 - Technical and Swimwear Knit: These are used to make specific sportswear.
15 - Stretch Cotton Jersey (or Cotton Elastane): This type reinforces elasticity, used for leggings, T-shirts, lingerie, or sports items, and is highly recommended for close-fitting clothing.
2. Preparing to Sew Jersey Fabric
Understanding the Direction of Jersey Knit
Jersey knit fabric stretches across its width. It is knitted in successive rows, so it has a grainline. The pattern pieces should be placed on the grainline, parallel to the selvage (perpendicular to the rows). This ensures uniform elasticity for all garment pieces.
Pay special attention when placing the pattern pieces on the jersey. If the pieces are slightly off-grain, your garment will twist with washing because the knit "moves" (you would see the side seams of your T-shirt twisting over time).
Cutting the Fabric
Fold the fabric along the grainline, with right sides together. Align the selvages side by side if the fabric needs to be folded in half, or face to face if the fabric needs to be folded in thirds (bring both selvages together in the middle of the fabric, forming a "gift package"), depending on the cutting layout provided with the pattern.
Place all pattern pieces on the grainline and pin them carefully, avoiding stretching the fabric.
Trace the pattern outlines (add seam allowances if they are not included in the pattern) with a soft tracing tool to avoid snagging the knit.
Cut the pieces. I prefer using a rotary cutter instead of scissors to prevent the jersey from shifting.
Jersey fabric naturally tends to curl at raw cut edges. The stitches tighten up. A raw edge can be left as is without overlocking because it won't fray. It's magical! However, a hole made in the middle of the jersey will tend to enlarge because a stitch cut in the middle of the fabric will unravel.
Personally, I prefer to overlock the raw edges anyway to flatten the seam allowances and prevent the curling from creating visible bulk under the clothes.
3. Sewing Jersey Fabric
Serger or No Serger?
A serger is ideal for sewing jersey because it sews, cuts the edges, and overlocks in one operation. The seam is also very stretchy, adapting well to the fabric.
However, you can definitely sew without a serger!
Sewing with a regular sewing machine is entirely feasible and even simple!
Equipment for Sewing Without a Serger
A few basic investments are necessary to sew jersey effortlessly with a sewing machine:
-
A Jersey Needle: This special needle has a slightly rounded tip that allows it to slide between the stitches without piercing or damaging them. (This needle is also used for a serger)
Medium Jerseys: Needle size 80 to 90.
Thick Jerseys: Needle size 90 and above.
Available at ikatee online store
- A Double Needle (Optional): This needle is used to create neat, stretchy hems. They come in different sizes (depending on the desired spacing between the two lines of stitching). To set it up, install two spools of thread on the machine. Most machines have two spool pins, but if not, place the two spools one on top of the other. Thread both threads through the machine following the usual path, then thread each one through a separate needle eye (one thread per needle). When sewing with a straight stitch, two parallel lines of stitching will be created on top, while the bobbin thread forms a zigzag between the two lines underneath the jersey.
Available at ikatee online store
- Foam Thread (for the Bobbin): Foam thread, made of multi-fiber polyester, has a fluffy, voluminous appearance. It is soft and stretchy, providing elasticity to your seams. Since jersey fabric is stretchy, the seams also need to be stretchy to prevent them from breaking during wear (e.g., when putting on the garment). Foam thread is used in lingerie, sportswear, swimwear, and generally for all knits. It is recommended for the bobbin in single-needle sewing but is unnecessary when using a double needle, as the double needle already forms a stretchy seam with the zigzag created by the regular bobbin thread. Foam thread is not recommended for the top thread (the thread visible on the outside of the seam) because a single foam thread in the bobbin is enough to ensure the seam's elasticity. Additionally, foam thread has a fluffy appearance that is not visually appealing on the outside, making the seam less "linear" on the right side. The range of colors available for foam thread is also much more limited than that of regular sewing thread, and having a color-matched thread is important for the right side of the jersey. Therefore, you only need to choose a foam thread in a similar or neutral color, as the foam thread will only be visible on the wrong side of the jersey. Note: Foam thread spools are often available as small cones with approximately 1000 meters of thread, priced around 6 to 10 euros. You don't need all the colors; just a few basics will be enough !
Available at ikatee online store
- Sewing Thread: For the machine's spool, you can use regular cotton or polyester thread. I recommend polyester thread, as it is more durable than cotton thread. Additionally, since it will be paired with foam thread in the bobbin, which is also polyester, using threads of the same material is preferable to optimize the characteristics of the materials.
- Clips or Pins
- Rotary Cutter for Fabric Cutting (A rotary cutter is optional but recommended, as it prevents stretching the fabric during cutting.)
Sewing
- Choosing the Stitch
There are several stitches for sewing jersey; all can be lengthened or shortened as needed. The important thing is to create an elastic seam.
The key is to create an elastic seam.
Elastic or Stretch Stitch: Not available on all machines (check your manual). It is used for sewing parts that need to remain stretchy (collars, hems, etc.). This stitch is already quite stretchy, so the use of foam thread in the bobbin is not necessary. The disadvantage of this stitch is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing because it is not linear.
Zigzag Stitch or Triple Zigzag Stitch: This stitch also allows sewing parts that need to remain stretchy (collars, hems, etc.).
Overlock or Serger Stitches: These stitches allow sewing and overlocking at the same time.
While useful, zigzag or stretch stitches have a downside: the aesthetic result is not ideal in my opinion (zigzag effect). Therefore, it is possible to use the straight stitch for all seams by using foam thread in the bobbin.
Straight Stitch (my favorite!): Generally set the stitch length to 2 to 2.5mm (4 to 5 stitches per centimeter). It is perfect for straight seams on shoulders, sides, etc., as these seams need less elasticity. For other seams, it can also be used with foam thread in the bobbin.
- Handling Jersey Fabric
Jersey knit fabric is stretchy and tends to stretch during sewing.
First Point: Let the machine set the sewing pace! Do not hold back or pull the fabric. If you pull the jersey, it will slightly distort, causing the seam to "ripple" the fabric. Simply guide the jersey without applying pressure.
Using a Walking Foot (or Dual Feed Foot): This foot helps move the fabric under the presser foot more smoothly. Some machines come with this feature (e.g., the PFAFF passport 2) or offer it as an option. It’s a good investment for those who want to sew jersey regularly.
Without a walking foot, try these tips:
- Test sewing on jersey samples.
- Reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine allows this adjustment, to improve fabric feeding.
- Alternatively, place and pin a sheet of thin paper (such as tissue paper or pattern paper) under (or over) the jersey to stabilize the fabric under the presser foot. After sewing, gently tear away the paper.
- Reinforcing Seams (Shoulders, etc.)
Some seams need to be reinforced because they are heavily used (such as shoulder seams). It is recommended to use an extra strip of jersey or a cotton twill tape on the wrong side of the jersey and stitch through the layers.
- Sewing Hems
Fold the fabric and sew either with a zigzag stitch or a straight stitch using a double needle. If using a double needle, place two spools of thread on your machine. Most machines have two spool pins; if you only have one, stack the two spools on top of each other. Thread both threads through the same path and then through each eye of the double needle. Reduce the stitch length. Test on a fabric scrap with a straight stitch. If the seam tends to pucker, reduce the thread tension. The bobbin thread will form a zigzag stitch between the two lines of straight stitches, ensuring elasticity (no need for foam thread with the double needle).
- Sewing Bias Tape on Jersey
It is ideal to use jersey bias tape to allow it to conform to the fabric's curves and stretchiness.
- Sewing Jersey with Non-Stretch Fabric
Sewing two different materials is easy by placing the jersey on top of the non-stretch fabric and stitching with a straight stitch using a jersey or stretch needle.
- Forming a Ribbed Collar (or Cuff, etc.)
The technique explained above is also applicable to a ribbed cuff or an ankle cuff.
The technique explained above is also applicable to a ribbed cuff or an ankle cuff.